Saturday 28 May: FAMAGUSTA to HOME

The sun rises in the East as we wake to our alarm at 5.20am. The taxi is punctual and we have the usual fun trying to squeeze the bikes into the boot. A speedy journey along the flat plains with the mountains of Kyrenia as a backdrop. We are proud that we have cycled all the way, totalling 410 miles. We see the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus flag emblazoned  on the side of the mountain for all to see, especially the Greek inhabitants of Nicosia we suppose. We are increasing slick at getting the bikes into their bags and join the queue to check in. The bikes cause a bit of a stir and we are sent away to buy tickets for them (which Simon was partially expecting as the communication when booking had been challenging). After this they seem to handle them with efficiency and we feel hopeful that they will make it back to Heathrow via a change of plane in Istanbul. 

So, two flights in reasonable comfort with good food and a G&T to keep us going. All on time and bags and bikes all arrive intact. We navigate through Heathrow lifts to the Express then on to Paddington and the GWR To Exeter St David's. It is a nice evening so we cycle the last bit to Topsham arriving home at about 9pm local time (feels like 11pm). The garden has blossomed incredibly in our absence and Summer feels in the air. 

Friday 27 May: FAMAGUSTA

After an ample buffet breakfast on the terrace we cycle into the old walled town of Famagusta (Gazimagusa). We scramble up onto the walls and enjoy the views before exploring the dungeons, cellars and moat of the Land Gate, the largest bastion. There are some gruesome stories of gory bloodshed during the prolonged battle between the Venetians and the invading Ottoman Turks during the siege of Famagusta in 1571. It was the sheer power of the walls that allegedly enabled them to hold out for 10 whole months. We are hot and sweating in the heat so enjoy a refreshing orange juice in the main street (also making use of the facilities experiencing Mick's Famagusta effect!) We then discover churches, palaces, towers, mosques and ancient ruins at almost every corner. The most memorable being the St Nicholas Cathedral converted into the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque. The main facade has been likened to Reims Cathedral but inside it has been stripped of any Christian features. The alter is bare, the stained glass has been removed and the floor is carpeted with Turkish carpet and there is a minbar instead of a pulpit. All very incongruous.

Back to the beach for some rest and reading before another storm arrives. We escape the rain in the Wellness Centre and warm up in the sauna before reading on the balcony and beginning our preparations for our return journey.

Thursday 26 May Salamis to Famagusta (12 miles)

We are up early and get to breakfast before 7:30, the idea being to get to Salamis before everyone else, which we do, and it's deserted...just us and lots of starred agamae (the largest lizard in the island), some of which have lost their tails. Before we leave our hotel I talk with a group of Swedes, who are at our hotel for a reunion of those who served in the UN forces that were here in 1974. They point out that the situation in Cyprus since 1974 is merely the workings of a ceasefire and not a permanent solution. We walk all over the remains of the Roman saunas, gymnasium and theatre, and even cycle to the basilica near the beach with its diamond shaped pieces of mosaic...it would be quite a walk otherwise. We are now only a stones throw from the sea, and we swim and sunbathe and I go looking for the remains of the Roman harbour, now largely submerged. There are hundreds of shards of pottery here, all smoothed by the waves over the years. After a while we cycle along the dual carriageway (which for some reason is largely devoid of cars) and then enter Famagusta, with its mass of doner and shish kebab eateries. We find our lovely hotel, the Arkin Palm Beach Hotel - quite an attractive Art Deco building with beach and pool at the front. It is right next to the ruined and abandoned part of Famagusta known as Varosha. For 42 years mile after mile of hotels and apartments have been left to decay. It's a military area and photography is forbidden. To the North and West we can see the Kyrenia mountains which taper towards the Karpaz peninsula. What a long way we've cycled!

Wednesday 25 May: AYIOS PHILON to SALAMIS (50 miles)

It has been too windy for turtles. We gather that they don't come ashore unless it is calm so our turtle hunt has been in vain. We will have to make do with the tracks we have seen in the sand leading to the nests dug at the back of the beach and the small terrapin that they have put in the fountain at Oasis. We say our farewells to Cavid who has looked after us so well. We are pleased that we had an extra unexpected day at Karpaz. We first stop at Ayios Thrysos, an ancient Church by the sea with numerous colourful icons. Then we head up the hill to Sipahi, home to 130 Greeks who decided to stay behind despite partition. We had heard that every Wednesday the UN deliver supplies to them and sure enough, incredibly, as we arrive we meet a group of UN lorries laden with goods. We visit Ayia Trias, the site of a 5th century Basilica with 3 aisled structures with columns, baptistry, fonts and impressive mosaics that we can still walk on. There is even an unusual mosaic of two pairs of sandals facing in opposite directions.

We then join the main road again which becomes increasingly busy as we head straight into the strong south westerly wind towards Salamis. Progress is slow and arduous and we refuel with Coca Cola on two occasions. Our destination of the Salamis Bay Conti Hotel is a concrete monstrosity on the horizon. The reception area is like the departure lounge of an airport and I have counted over 360 rooms just in the main block (Oasis had 8!) We are even given wrist bands to wear to show that we are half board not all inclusive. Our room however is large, spotless and has a small balcony facing the sea. Once again we are transported into another world and we explore nervously. After the usual beer we find a sunbed on the small beach and grab the last rays of the afternoon sunshine. We have just discovered there is a dress code for supper, thank goodness for Simon's zip on trousers.

Infact there are shorts and flip flops present in the dining room so all is not lost. We get a table outside and then eat for Great Britain, buffet style of course so plates groaning. Well we have cycled 50 miles and didn't have lunch. The food is actually very tasty and an incredible feat of organisation to feed the 5000!

Tuesday 24 May at Ayios Philon

The strong westerly wind is still blowing, and the sound of crashing waves below our room almost drowns out the early morning call of the francolin...but not quite! We decide to make a proper tour of the old church of Ayios Philon, which involves no cycling and hardly any walking as it is only a few paces away form where we are staying. It seems incredible to be able just to walk all over the original basilica of Bishop Philon, who converted the Karpaz to Christianity, with its mosaic floors and marble column remnants which date from the 5th Century. Nearby,and pretty much on the same site, is a 10th Century church, with some modern Greek Orthodox icons to Bishop Philon of Karpasia and candles in a recess amongst the ruined apse. We then walk to the deserted sandy beach which looks like a Cornish beach in full surf....and so the day passes.

Monday 23 May: Oasis

It is very windy overnight and I am woken by the sound of our plastic chair being whipped away. In the morning the waves are more reminiscent of Cornwall than the Mediterranean. It is still clear so undeterred we decide to cycle back over to the other side of the peninsula seeking shelter from the strong westerly wind. On the way we look at the Greek Orthodox Church in Dipkarpaz which although locked up is still in active use by the small Greek Cypriot community here. When we reach the other side we are without luck as the wind seems everywhere and even worse the clouds are becoming dark and threatening. We decide to head back up the hill and we reach Dipkarpaz as the heavens open. We seek shelter near the mosque, under the building where they wash their feet before prayer. I feel rather uncomfortable near such hallowed and "male only" ground but Simon is brave enough to peer inside the mosque itself and take some photos. Luckily our visit does not coincide with one of the five daily calls to prayer. We get back to Oasis and find they have battened down the hatches and all the outside tables and chairs have been cleared. They think we are mad when we ask to have lunch outside but we enjoy some calamari and a beer wearing our fleeces. We then feel in need of a zizz and once rested we walk along the local beach and around the headland. It appears that two turtles have now nested: we see their tracks in the sand. They nest at night so we will try another visit later perhaps but I think it is unlikely that we will be lucky enough to see one.

Sunday 22 May Golden Beach and end of Karpaz peninsula

We head off an up to Dipkarpaz, which is still home apparently to a community of Greek Cypriots, and then down a long section of new road which meets the old potholed and bone shaking road that takes us to the end of the finger of this island that points towards Turkey and Syria. Farmers are making hay whilst the sun shines and the corn fields are being cut by combine harvesters. The francolin are calling to us as we bump along the 15 or so miles to the end of the peninsula . I'd like to have a francolin ring tone on my mobile phone. There are plenty of wild donkeys which block the road, expecting to be fed. St Andreas monestry, where the road ends, is a pilgrimage site for presumably Greek Orthodox, and we see a group with candles as votive offerings to Saint Andrew, probably hoping that they will be cured of some ailment, like the partially sighted sea captain who originally brought St Andrew to these shores and whose sight was restored by the Saint. Golden Sands beach is a beautiful stretch of sand, which we visit for a few hours before making the bone jarring trip back to Ayios Philos. We watch the sun set  towards the Turkish mainland, and drink our now favourite Turkish white wine,Cankaya.

Saturday 21 May: Ayios Philon

We wake to the sound not of the Muezzin but to the sound of waves lapping on the shore beneath our room. What a heavenly place this is. Certainly simple and rustic compared to the luxuries of Girne but the situation is amazing and the staff are very friendly and welcoming. We cycle about 5 miles down a rough potholed road to Aphendrika, the site of an important Cyprus village in 200BC where there are more recent ruins of 12th century Churches, dwellings and a citadel. We explore the tumbled down ruins once again hearing the familiar frequent cry of the Francolin. We then hear braying and see a group of wild donkeys, brown with white muzzles. Back to our local beach with white sands the colour of the Caribbean for a few hours of reading and bronzing and the odd dip in the clear sea. A brief break for a beer and a tuna salad before resuming our horizontal positions. We gather that the first turtle has been spotted nesting at the far end of the beach. We may try to explore after dark to see if we can see any.

Friday 20 May Kaplica to Dipkarpaz (Ayios Philon) 40 miles

The call to prayer from the nearby mosque in the village of Kaplica happens at 4:30 a.m. and it's very loud. Obviously a tape recording rather than an actual muezzin up the minaret as it ends very abruptly. Later we hear what we now know are black francolin, related to the pheasant, making their distinctive call from the nearby wheat field. We change our arrangements slightly so that we will have longer in Famagusta, which takes a while, and we eventually head off at about 10:30. Beautiful scenery, perfect quiet roads and flat, no headwind, sun shining...perfect. We even stop for a skinny dip at a sandy cove. There are new shiny mosques right next to what look to be abandoned Greek Orthodox churches, though some apparently have one or two services a year for the Greek Cypriots who still live here and didn't locate to the South in 1974. We see our first wild donkey in a field of wheat. There are some long stretches of 10% gradients and even to get to Dipkarpaz involves a final climb before a long downhill descent to Ayios Phillon, where we are staying. The aptly named Oasis is in the most beautiful setting, right next to the sea and the remains of a 10th century church. Apparently there was an ancient city here called Karpasia, founded by King Pygmalion of Cyprus. Around the headland a short walk takes us to a lovely sandy beach, where we rest our cycle weary bodies!

Thursday 19 May: GIRNE to KAPLICA BEACH (36 miles)

We start the day with an early morning swim in the rooftop pool. We have it to ourselves and dry off in the sun. Simon feels the need for more pampering so visits another local Turkish barber for a shave and a haircut. He returns well coiffured with a neat short back and sides and smooth cheeks. We are especially sorry to be leaving The Colony Hotel which has been quite the most luxurious and relaxing place I have ever stayed in and at a third of the price of a mediocre B&B in Bath. It has been a real treat. We are on the road later than usual. It is Bayrim, a Turkish Bank Holiday granted by Attaturk. There are massive flags the size of sails hanging from balconies. The first 10 miles is busy with cars and trucks but it does eventually thin out and become more scenic as we leave the town and pass through countryside splattered with holiday villas, all owned by the English we gather. Simon's wish about a westerly wind has not been granted and it is hot and still. The terrain is mainly flat however and we make good progress. We arrive at Kaplica Beach Resort with some trepidation and are not entirely surprised to find a sprawling rather unattractive development albeit on a sandy beach. Our room is large and clean and overlooks a pool (which is being renovated and currently out of use!) Our original plan was to spend 2 nights here but we think we will make a quick getaway and try and get to the Karpas peninsula a day early. We read books on the beach and walk along some extraordinary sandstone rock formations.

Wednesday 18 May Girne and St Hilarion

We wake to the sound of turkeys. In previous days we've heard ducks. There's still the same cockerel though; odd seeing as we're in the middle of town! At 09:30 Ahmed picks us up and we zoom up to St Hilarion crusader castle. We can actually see it from our balcony perched on the highest part of this mountain range. It has staircases everywhere which tumble up and down, from which there are incredible views down to Girne and the sea. We can just make out the Colony below. There are views towards the Masaori plain, hazy in the distance and the mountains behind. The highest part is 700+ metres. Even up here there is a military base. Ahmed is from mainland Turkey and resettled here with his family after the Turkish occupation. He explains how he had to do 15 months of national service, which is still compulsory for young men. We sit by the Queen's window, where Queen Eleanor, a scheming Lusignan queen, used to sit and scheme and admire the view. The Westerly wind really picks up in the afternoon, but with any luck it'll still be blowing tomorrow when we head towards the Karpaz peninsula in the East, the panhandle of Cyprus.