Friday 13 May: Akamus to Kato Pyrgos (36 miles)

We are sorry to leave the tranquil setting of the Aphrodite Beach Hotel and the beautiful Akamus Peninsula but are packed up and on the road by 9.30. We pass through Latchi and a coastal diversion around Polis cycling through orange groves and wheat fields. It feels very humid today. We make good progress along the coastal road and stop for a freshly squeezed orange juice in Pomos. From here we can see the much discussed Kokkini Enclave with its Turkish Flag emblazoned on the side of the hill. This area is occupied by the Turks and we have had conflicting advice about whether or not we can cycle through or whether we have to cycle 14km up and over the mountain to avoid it. This has led to many a jape about "Kokkina in or out!" We decide to be brave and cycle down to the check point. We are met by a Turkish soldier on duty who tells us "no", it is only the UN who can pass through. He smiles when he advises us that the detour is long and steep. Morale is at a low ebb as we begin our climb. The gradient is 11% which is on the cusp of my comfort zone and progress is slow with frequent stops to rest and drink water. The military area below is fascinating, incredibly rugged and threatening with areas fenced off by barbed wire and frequent signs advising that photographs are forbidden (equally frequently ignored by Simon.) The much longed for descent is infact almost more painful as the surface is rough and we have to do a lot of braking. After a long day we arrive in Kato Pyrgos, a ghost like town that looks as though it has seen better days, suffering from its isolation and proximity to the border with Northern Cyprus. Our hotel, the only thing that looks vaguely open, is the Tilos Beach Hotel overlooking the small harbour. We are greeted effusively by the delightful Greek owner who makes us sit down with a large beer while she prepares calamari, halloumi and some delicious chips! We then fall asleep before a wander around the town. Our hostess is very keen to cook us more food this evening. We think we are the only guests!