Wednesday 11 May: The Akamus Peninsula

Breakfast on the terrace before cycling westwards along the Akamus Peninsula. We leave the bikes under a shady tree as the road deteriorates into a dirt track, alright for the noisy 4x4 jeeps for hire but not for the likes of us. We start at the Baths of Aphrodite prepared to be underwhelmed as our guide books suggests. Instead we are quite taken with the tranquil spot in a leafy glade hidden within botanical gardens. Perhaps the author's visit coincided with a coach load of Japanese tourists. We then follow signs up the hillside for the Aphrodite Trail allegedly a 7.5km tour up to the ruins of the Queen's Palace and to the very same old Oak Tree beneath which Aphrodite would rest after her frivolity with Adonis. In true Clarey style we manage to get lost of course and miss the Oak tree altogether. Naturally we have to loop back and add a huge detour! It is worth it however and the subsequent views overlooking the western part of the Akamus Peninsula are spectacular. We seem to manage in our now dusty open sandals although there are times when I miss my sturdy Brasher boots on the descent. Massive salamanders frequently cross our path. We see some sort of Eagle and a flock of Bee-eaters and the remnants of some wild flora that would have been stunning earlier in the Spring. Drawn by the heady citrus aroma we buy oranges from a lady selling from the back of her truck. A refreshing (small) beer before returning to the beach below our hotel. Delicious fresh fish soup and a Cyprus Salad at the beach restaurant before a bit of well earned relaxation. In the evening we cycle 1.5 km back to the Baths of Aphrodite Restaurant. We are virtually the only ones there but have the undivided attention of a delightful waitress and glorious views of the bay below as the sun sets. There is fresh fish and we share calamari and sea bream, both delicious. We finish with a glass of commanderie, a local fortified wine similar to Madeira. It is now dark but Simon had assured me that the cycle home would be easier thanks to his new bike lights. Alas the battery has run low so we have to rely on my rather dim efforts. The road was empty and it was really rather fun under the stars.